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past Whitechapel Church; and was … rather inappropriately for an
Uncommercial Traveller … in the Commercial Road。 Pleasantly
wallowing in the abundant mud of that thoroughfare; and greatly
enjoying the huge piles of building belonging to the sugar
refiners; the little masts and vanes in small back gardens in back
streets; the neighbouring canals and docks; the India vans
lumbering along their stone tramway; and the pawnbrokers' shops
where hard…up Mates had pawned so many sextants and quadrants; that
I should have bought a few cheap if I had the least notion how to
use them; I at last began to file off to the right; towards
Wapping。
Not that I intended to take boat at Wapping Old Stairs; or that I
was going to look at the locality; because I believe (for I don't)
in the constancy of the young woman who told her sea…going lover;
to such a beautiful old tune; that she had ever continued the same;
since she gave him the 'baccer…box marked with his name; I am
afraid he usually got the worst of those transactions; and was
frightfully taken in。 No; I was going to Wapping; because an
Eastern police magistrate had said; through the morning papers;
that there was no classification at the Wapping workhouse for
women; and that it was a disgrace and a shame; and divers other
hard names; and because I wished to see how the fact really stood。
For; that Eastern police magistrates are not always the wisest men
of the East; may be inferred from their course of procedure
respecting the fancy…dressing and pantomime…posturing at St。
George's in that quarter: which is usually; to discuss the matter
at issue; in a state of mind betokening the weakest perplexity;
with all parties concerned and unconcerned; and; for a final
expedient; to consult the complainant as to what he thinks ought to
be done with the defendant; and take the defendant's opinion as to
what he would recommend to be done with himself。
Long before I reached Wapping; I gave myself up as having lost my
way; and; abandoning myself to the narrow streets in a Turkish
frame of mind; relied on predestination to bring me somehow or
other to the place I wanted if I were ever to get there。 When I
had ceased for an hour or so to take any trouble about the matter;
I found myself on a swing…bridge looking down at some dark locks in
some dirty water。 Over against me; stood a creature remotely in
the likeness of a young man; with a puffed sallow face; and a
figure all dirty and shiny and slimy; who may have been the
youngest son of his filthy old father; Thames; or the drowned man
about whom there was a placard on the granite post like a large
thimble; that stood between us。
I asked this apparition what it called the place? Unto which; it
replied; with a ghastly grin and a sound like gurgling water in its
throat:
'Mr。 Baker's trap。'
As it is a point of great sensitiveness with me on such occasions
to be equal to the intellectual pressure of the conversation; I
deeply considered the meaning of this speech; while I eyed the
apparition … then engaged in hugging and sucking a horizontal iron
bar at the top of the locks。 Inspiration suggested to me that Mr。
Baker was the acting coroner of that neighbourhood。
'A common place for suicide;' said I; looking down at the locks。
'Sue?' returned the ghost; with a stare。 'Yes! And Poll。
Likewise Emily。 And Nancy。 And Jane;' he sucked the iron between
each name; 'and all the bileing。 Ketches off their bonnets or
shorls; takes a run; and headers down here; they doos。 Always a
headerin' down here; they is。 Like one o'clock。'
'And at about that hour of the morning; I suppose?'
'Ah!' said the apparition。 'THEY an't partickler。 Two 'ull do for
THEM。 Three。 All times o' night。 On'y mind you!' Here the
apparition rested his profile on the bar; and gurgled in a
sarcastic manner。 'There must be somebody comin'。 They don't go a
headerin' down here; wen there an't no Bobby nor gen'ral Cove; fur
to hear the splash。'
According to my interpretation of these words; I was myself a
General Cove; or member of the miscellaneous public。 In which
modest character I remarked:
'They are often taken out; are they; and restored?'
'I dunno about restored;' said the apparition; who; for some occult
reason; very much objected to that word; 'they're carried into the
werkiss and put into a 'ot bath; and brought round。 But I dunno
about restored;' said the apparition; 'blow THAT!' … and vanished。
As it had shown a desire to become offensive; I was not sorry to
find myself alone; especially as the 'werkiss' it had indicated
with a twist of its matted head; was close at hand。 So I left Mr。
Baker's terrible trap (baited with a scum that was like the soapy
rinsing of sooty chimneys); and made bold to ring at the workhouse
gate; where I was wholly unexpected and quite unknown。
A very bright and nimble little matron; with a bunch of keys in her
hand; responded to my request to see the House。 I began to doubt
whether the police magistrate was quite right in his facts; when I
noticed her quick; active little figure and her intelligent eyes。
The Traveller (the matron intimated) should see the worst first。
He was welcome to see everything。 Such as it was; there it all
was。
This was the only preparation for our entering 'the Foul wards。'
They were in an old building squeezed away in a corner of a paved
yard; quite detached from the more modern and spacious main body of
the workhouse。 They were in a building most monstrously behind the
time … a mere series of garrets or lofts; with every inconvenient
and objectionable circumstance in their construction; and only
accessible by steep and narrow staircases; infamously ill…adapted
for the passage up…stairs of the sick or down…stairs of the dead。
A…bed in these miserable rooms; here on bedsteads; there (for a
change; as I understood it) on the floor; were women in every stage
of distress and disease。 None but those who have attentively
observed such scenes; can conceive the extraordinary variety of
expression still latent under the general monotony and uniformity
of colour; attitude; and condition。 The form a little coiled up
and turned away; as though it had turned its back on this world for
ever; the uninterested face at once lead…coloured and yellow;
looking passively upward from the pillow; the haggard mouth a
little dropped; the hand outside the coverlet; so dull and
indifferent; so light; and yet so heavy; these were on every
pallet; but when I stopped beside a bed; and said ever so slight a
word to the figure lying there; the ghost of the old character came
into the face; and made the Foul ward as various as the fair world。
No one appeared to care to live; but no one complained; all who
could speak; said that as much was done for them as could be done
there; that the attendance was kind and patient; that their
suffering was very heavy; but they had nothing to ask for。 The
wretched rooms were as clean and sweet as it is possible for such
rooms to be; they would become a pest…house in a single week; if
they were ill…kept。
I accompanied the brisk matron up another barbarous staircase; into
a better kind of loft devoted to the idiotic and imbecile。 There
was at least Light in it; whereas the windows in the former wards
had been like sides of school…boys' bird…cages。 There was a strong
grating over the fire here; and; holding a kind of state on either
side of the hearth; separated by the breadth of this grating; were
two old ladies in a condition of feeble dignity; which was surely
the very last and lowest reduction of self…complacency to be found
in this wonderful humanity of ours。 They were evidently jealous of
each other; and passed their whole time (as some people do; whose
fires are not grated) in mentally disparaging each other; and
contemptuously watching their neighbours。 One of these parodies on
provincial gentlewomen was extremely talkative; and expressed a
strong desire to attend the service on Sundays; from which she
represented herself to have derived the greatest interest and
consolation when allowed that privilege。 She gossiped so well; and
looked altogether so cheery and harmless; that I began to think
this a case for the Eastern magistrate; until I found that on the
last occasion of her attending chapel she had secreted a small
stick; and had caused some confusion in the responses by suddenly
producing it and belabouring the congregation。
So; these two old ladies; separated by the breadth of the grating …
otherwise they would fly at one another's caps … sat all day long;
suspecting one another; and contemplating a world of fits。 For
everybody else in the room had fits; except the wards…woman; an
elderly; able…bodied pauperess; with a large upper lip; and an air
of repressing and saving her strength; as she stood with her