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the uncommercial traveller-第65章

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gave it the additional weight of my uncommercial signature。  To the

best of my belief; I bound myself to the modest statement that

universal traffic; happiness; prosperity; and civilisation;

together with unbounded national triumph in competition with the

foreigner; would infallibly flow from the Branch。



Having achieved this constitutional feat; I asked Mr。 Mellows if he

could grace my dinner with a pint of good wine?  Mr。 Mellows thus

replied。



'If I couldn't give you a pint of good wine; I'd … there! … I'd

take and drown myself in a pail。  But I was deceived when I bought

this business; and the stock was higgledy…piggledy; and I haven't

yet tasted my way quite through it with a view to sorting it。

Therefore; if you order one kind and get another; change till it

comes right。  For what;' said Mellows; unloading his hat as before;

'what would you or any gentleman do; if you ordered one kind of

wine and was required to drink another?  Why; you'd (and naturally

and properly; having the feelings of a gentleman); you'd take and

drown yourself in a pail!'







CHAPTER XXV … THE BOILED BEEF OF NEW ENGLAND







The shabbiness of our English capital; as compared with Paris;

Bordeaux; Frankfort; Milan; Geneva … almost any important town on

the continent of Europe … I find very striking after an absence of

any duration in foreign parts。  London is shabby in contrast with

Edinburgh; with Aberdeen; with Exeter; with Liverpool; with a

bright little town like Bury St。 Edmunds。  London is shabby in

contrast with New York; with Boston; with Philadelphia。  In detail;

one would say it can rarely fail to be a disappointing piece of

shabbiness; to a stranger from any of those places。  There is

nothing shabbier than Drury…lane; in Rome itself。  The meanness of

Regent…street; set against the great line of Boulevards in Paris;

is as striking as the abortive ugliness of Trafalgar…square; set

against the gallant beauty of the Place de la Concorde。  London is

shabby by daylight; and shabbier by gaslight。  No Englishman knows

what gaslight is; until he sees the Rue de Rivoli and the Palais

Royal after dark。



The mass of London people are shabby。  The absence of distinctive

dress has; no doubt; something to do with it。  The porters of the

Vintners' Company; the draymen; and the butchers; are about the

only people who wear distinctive dresses; and even these do not

wear them on holidays。  We have nothing which for cheapness;

cleanliness; convenience; or picturesqueness; can compare with the

belted blouse。  As to our women; … next Easter or Whitsuntide; look

at the bonnets at the British Museum or the National Gallery; and

think of the pretty white French cap; the Spanish mantilla; or the

Genoese mezzero。



Probably there are not more second…hand clothes sold in London than

in Paris; and yet the mass of the London population have a second…

hand look which is not to be detected on the mass of the Parisian

population。  I think this is mainly because a Parisian workman does

not in the least trouble himself about what is worn by a Parisian

idler; but dresses in the way of his own class; and for his own

comfort。  In London; on the contrary; the fashions descend; and you

never fully know how inconvenient or ridiculous a fashion is; until

you see it in its last descent。  It was but the other day; on a

race…course; that I observed four people in a barouche deriving

great entertainment from the contemplation of four people on foot。

The four people on foot were two young men and two young women; the

four people in the barouche were two young men and two young women。

The four young women were dressed in exactly the same style; the

four young men were dressed in exactly the same style。  Yet the two

couples on wheels were as much amused by the two couples on foot;

as if they were quite unconscious of having themselves set those

fashions; or of being at that very moment engaged in the display of

them。



Is it only in the matter of clothes that fashion descends here in

London … and consequently in England … and thence shabbiness

arises?  Let us think a little; and be just。  The 'Black Country'

round about Birmingham; is a very black country; but is it quite as

black as it has been lately painted?  An appalling accident

happened at the People's Park near Birmingham; this last July; when

it was crowded with people from the Black Country … an appalling

accident consequent on a shamefully dangerous exhibition。  Did the

shamefully dangerous exhibition originate in the moral blackness of

the Black Country; and in the Black People's peculiar love of the

excitement attendant on great personal hazard; which they looked on

at; but in which they did not participate?  Light is much wanted in

the Black Country。  O we are all agreed on that。  But; we must not

quite forget the crowds of gentlefolks who set the shamefully

dangerous fashion; either。  We must not quite forget the

enterprising Directors of an Institution vaunting mighty

educational pretences; who made the low sensation as strong as they

possibly could make it; by hanging the Blondin rope as high as they

possibly could hang it。  All this must not be eclipsed in the

Blackness of the Black Country。  The reserved seats high up by the

rope; the cleared space below it; so that no one should be smashed

but the performer; the pretence of slipping and falling off; the

baskets for the feet and the sack for the head; the photographs

everywhere; and the virtuous indignation nowhere … all this must

not be wholly swallowed up in the blackness of the jet…black

country。



Whatsoever fashion is set in England; is certain to descend。  This

is a text for a perpetual sermon on care in setting fashions。  When

you find a fashion low down; look back for the time (it will never

be far off) when it was the fashion high up。  This is the text for

a perpetual sermon on social justice。  From imitations of Ethiopian

Serenaders; to imitations of Prince's coats and waistcoats; you

will find the original model in St。 James's Parish。  When the

Serenaders become tiresome; trace them beyond the Black Country;

when the coats and waistcoats become insupportable; refer them to

their source in the Upper Toady Regions。



Gentlemen's clubs were once maintained for purposes of savage party

warfare; working men's clubs of the same day assumed the same

character。  Gentlemen's clubs became places of quiet inoffensive

recreation; working men's clubs began to follow suit。  If working

men have seemed rather slow to appreciate advantages of combination

which have saved the pockets of gentlemen; and enhanced their

comforts; it is because working men could scarcely; for want of

capital; originate such combinations without help; and because help

has not been separable from that great impertinence; Patronage。

The instinctive revolt of his spirit against patronage; is a

quality much to be respected in the English working man。  It is the

base of the base of his best qualities。  Nor is it surprising that

he should be unduly suspicious of patronage; and sometimes

resentful of it even where it is not; seeing what a flood of washy

talk has been let loose on his devoted head; or with what

complacent condescension the same devoted head has been smoothed

and patted。  It is a proof to me of his self…control that he never

strikes out pugilistically; right and left; when addressed as one

of 'My friends;' or 'My assembled friends;' that he does not become

inappeasable; and run amuck like a Malay; whenever he sees a biped

in broadcloth getting on a platform to talk to him; that any

pretence of improving his mind; does not instantly drive him out of

his mind; and cause him to toss his obliging patron like a mad

bull。



For; how often have I heard the unfortunate working man lectured;

as if he were a little charity…child; humid as to his nasal

development; strictly literal as to his Catechism; and called by

Providence to walk all his days in a station in life represented on

festive occasions by a mug of warm milk…and…water and a bun!  What

popguns of jokes have these ears tingled to hear let off at him;

what asinine sentiments; what impotent conclusions; what spelling…

book moralities; what adaptations of the orator's insufferable

tediousness to the assumed level of his understanding!  If his

sledge…hammers; his spades and pick…axes; his saws and chisels; his

paint…pots and brushes; his forges; furnaces; and engines; the

horses that he drove at his work; and the machines that drove him

at his work; were all toys in one little paper box; and he the baby

who played with them; he could not have been discoursed to; more

impertinently and absurdly than I have heard him discoursed to

times innumerable。  Consequently; not being a fool or a fawner; he

has come to acknowledge his patronage by virtually saying:  'Let me

alone。  If you understand me no better than 
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