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mouths； like a sort of poor old Cows。 In some of these wards； it
was good to see a few green plants； in others； an isolated
Refractory acting as nurse； who did well enough in that capacity；
when separated from her compeers； every one of these wards； day
room； night room； or both combined； was scrupulously clean and
fresh。 I have seen as many such places as most travellers in my
line； and I never saw one such； better kept。
Among the bedridden there was great patience； great reliance on the
books under the pillow； great faith in GOD。 All cared for
sympathy； but none much cared to be encouraged with hope of
recovery； on the whole； I should say； it was considered rather a
distinction to have a complication of disorders； and to be in a
worse way than the rest。 From some of the windows； the river could
be seen with all its life and movement； the day was bright； but I
came upon no one who was looking out。
In one large ward； sitting by the fire in arm…chairs of
distinction； like the President and Vice of the good company； were
two old women； upwards of ninety years of age。 The younger of the
two； just turned ninety； was deaf； but not very； and could easily
be made to hear。 In her early time she had nursed a child； who was
now another old woman； more infirm than herself； inhabiting the
very same chamber。 She perfectly understood this when the matron
told it； and； with sundry nods and motions of her forefinger；
pointed out the woman in question。 The elder of this pair； ninety…
three； seated before an illustrated newspaper （but not reading it）；
was a bright…eyed old soul； really not deaf； wonderfully preserved；
and amazingly conversational。 She had not long lost her husband；
and had been in that place little more than a year。 At Boston； in
the State of Massachusetts； this poor creature would have been
individually addressed； would have been tended in her own room； and
would have had her life gently assimilated to a comfortable life
out of doors。 Would that be much to do in England for a woman who
has kept herself out of a workhouse more than ninety rough long
years？ When Britain first； at Heaven's command； arose； with a
great deal of allegorical confusion； from out the azure main； did
her guardian angels positively forbid it in the Charter which has
been so much besung？
The object of my journey was accomplished when the nimble matron
had no more to show me。 As I shook hands with her at the gate； I
told her that I thought justice had not used her very well； and
that the wise men of the East were not infallible。
Now； I reasoned with myself； as I made my journey home again；
concerning those Foul wards。 They ought not to exist； no person of
common decency and humanity can see them and doubt it。 But what is
this Union to do？ The necessary alteration would cost several
thousands of pounds； it has already to support three workhouses；
its inhabitants work hard for their bare lives； and are already
rated for the relief of the Poor to the utmost extent of reasonable
endurance。 One poor parish in this very Union is rated to the
amount of FIVE AND SIXPENCE in the pound； at the very same time
when the rich parish of Saint George's； Hanover…square； is rated at
about SEVENPENCE in the pound； Paddington at about FOURPENCE； Saint
James's； Westminster； at about TENPENCE！ It is only through the
equalisation of Poor Rates that what is left undone in this wise；
can be done。 Much more is left undone； or is ill…done； than I have
space to suggest in these notes of a single uncommercial journey；
but； the wise men of the East； before they can reasonably hold
forth about it； must look to the North and South and West； let them
also； any morning before taking the seat of Solomon； look into the
shops and dwellings all around the Temple； and first ask themselves
'how much more can these poor people … many of whom keep themselves
with difficulty enough out of the workhouse … bear？'
I had yet other matter for reflection as I journeyed home； inasmuch
as； before I altogether departed from the neighbourhood of Mr。
Baker's trap； I had knocked at the gate of the workhouse of St。
George's…in…the…East； and had found it to be an establishment
highly creditable to those parts； and thoroughly well administered
by a most intelligent master。 I remarked in it； an instance of the
collateral harm that obstinate vanity and folly can do。 'This was
the Hall where those old paupers； male and female； whom I had just
seen； met for the Church service； was it？' … 'Yes。' … 'Did they
sing the Psalms to any instrument？' … 'They would like to； very
much； they would have an extraordinary interest in doing so。' …
'And could none be got？' … 'Well； a piano could even have been got
for nothing； but these unfortunate dissensions … ' Ah！ better； far
better； my Christian friend in the beautiful garment； to have let
the singing boys alone； and left the multitude to sing for
themselves！ You should know better than I； but I think I have read
that they did so； once upon a time； and that 'when they had sung an
hymn；' Some one （not in a beautiful garment） went up into the Mount
of Olives。
It made my heart ache to think of this miserable trifling； in the
streets of a city where every stone seemed to call to me； as I
walked along； 'Turn this way； man； and see what waits to be done！'
So I decoyed myself into another train of thought to ease my heart。
But； I don't know that I did it； for I was so full of paupers； that
it was； after all； only a change to a single pauper； who took
possession of my remembrance instead of a thousand。
'I beg your pardon； sir；' he had said； in a confidential manner； on
another occasion； taking me aside； 'but I have seen better days。'
'I am very sorry to hear it。'
'Sir； I have a complaint to make against the master。'
'I have no power here； I assure you。 And if I had … '
'But； allow me； sir； to mention it； as between yourself and a man
who has seen better days； sir。 The master and myself are both
masons； sir； and I make him the sign continually； but； because I am
in this unfortunate position； sir； he won't give me the counter…
sign！'
CHAPTER IV … TWO VIEWS OF A CHEAP THEATRE
As I shut the door of my lodging behind me； and came out into the
streets at six on a drizzling Saturday evening in the last past
month of January； all that neighbourhood of Covent…garden looked
very desolate。 It is so essentially a neighbourhood which has seen
better days； that bad weather affects it sooner than another place
which has not come down in the World。 In its present reduced
condition it bears a thaw almost worse than any place I know。 It
gets so dreadfully low…spirited when damp breaks forth。 Those
wonderful houses about Drury…lane Theatre； which in the palmy days
of theatres were prosperous and long…settled places of business；
and which now change hands every week； but never change their
character of being divided and sub…divided on the ground floor into
mouldy dens of shops where an orange and half…a…dozen nuts； or a
pomatum…pot； one cake of fancy soap； and a cigar box； are offered
for sale and never sold； were most ruefully contemplated that
evening； by the statue of Shakespeare； with the rain…drops coursing
one another down its innocent nose。 Those inscrutable pigeon…hole
offices； with nothing in them （not so much as an inkstand） but a
model of a theatre before the curtain； where； in the Italian Opera
season； tickets at reduced prices are kept on sale by nomadic
gentlemen in smeary hats too tall for them； whom one occasionally
seems to have seen on race…courses； not wholly unconnected with
strips of cloth of various colours and a rolling ball … those
Bedouin establishments； deserted by the tribe； and tenantless；
except when sheltering in one corner an irregular row of ginger…
beer bottles； which would have made one shudder on such a night；
but for its being plain that they had nothing in them； shrunk from
the shrill cries of the news…boys at their Exchange in the kennel
of Catherine…street； like guilty things upon a fearful summons。 At
the pipe…shop in Great Russell…street； the Death's…head pipes were
like theatrical memento mori； admonishing beholders of the decline
of the playhouse as an Institution。 I walked up Bow…street；
disposed to be angry with the shops there； that were letting out
theatrical secrets by exhibiting to work…a…day humanity the stuff
of which diadems and robes of kings are made。 I noticed that some
shops which had once been in the dramatic line； and had struggled
out of it； were not getting on prosperously … like some actors I
have known； who took to business and failed to make it answer。 In
a word； those streets looked so dull； and； considered as theatrical
streets； so broken and bankrupt； that the FOUND DEAD on the black
board at the police station might have announced the deceas