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which it was in his nature to resent。
When 'Roughing It' had been ready for issue he agreed with Bliss that
they should try the experiment of copyrighting it in England； and see how
far the law would protect them against the voracious little publisher；
who thus far had not only snapped up everything bearing Mark Twain's
signature； but had included in a volume of Mark Twain sketches certain
examples of very weak humor with which Mark Twain had been previously
unfamiliar。
Whatever the English pirate's opinion of the copyright protection of
'Roughing It' may have been； he did not attempt to violate it。 This was
gratifying。 Clemens came to regard England as a friendly power。 He
decided to visit it and spy out the land。 He would make the acquaintance
of its people and institutions and write a book； which would do these
things justice。
He gave out no word of his real purpose。 He merely said that he was
going over to see his English publishers； and perhaps to arrange for a
few lectures。 He provided himself with some stylographic note…books； by
which he could produce two copies of his daily memorandaone for himself
and one to mail to Mrs。 Clemensand sailed on the Scotia August 21；
1872。
Arriving in Liverpool he took train for London； and presently the
wonderful charm of that old； finished country broke upon him。 His 〃first
hour in England was an hour of delight；〃 he records； 〃of rapture and
ecstasy。 These are the best words I can find； but they are not adequate；
they are not strong enough to convey the feeling which this first vision
of rural England brought me。〃 Then he noticed that the gentleman
opposite in his compartment paid no attention to the scenery； but was
absorbed in a green…covered volume。 He was so absorbed in it that； by
and by； Clemens's curiosity was aroused。 He shifted his position a
little and his eye caught the title。 It was the first volume of the
English edition of The Innocents Abroad。 This was gratifying for a
moment； then he remembered that the man had never laughed； never even
smiled during the hour of his steady reading。 Clemens recalled what he
had heard of the English lack of humor。 He wondered if this was a fair
example of it； and if the man could be really taking seriously every word
he was reading。 Clemens could not look at the scenery any more for
watching his fellow…passenger； waiting with a fascinated interest for the
paragraph that would break up that iron…clad solemnity。 It did not come。
During all the rest of the trip to London the atmosphere of the
compartment remained heavy with gloom。
He drove to the Langham Hotel； always popular with Americans； established
himself； and went to look up his publishers。 He found the Routledges
about to sit down to luncheon in a private room； up…stairs； in their
publishing house。 He joined them； and not a soul stirred from that table
again until evening。 The Routledges had never heard Mark Twain talk
before； never heard any one talk who in the least resembled him。 Various
refreshments were served during the afternoon； came and went； while this
marvelous creature talked on and they listened； reveling； and wondering
if America had any more of that sort at home。 By and by dinner was
served； then after a long time； when there was no further excuse for
keeping him there； they took him to the Savage Club； where there were yet
other refreshments and a gathering of the clans to welcome this new
arrival as a being from some remote and unfamiliar star。
Tom Hood； the younger； was there； and Harry Lee； and Stanley the
explorer； who had but just returned from finding Livingstone； and Henry
Irving； and many another whose name remains； though the owners of those
names are all dead now； and their laughter and their good…fellowship are
only a part of that intangible fabric which we call the past。' ＇Clemens
had first known Stanley as a newspaper man。 〃I first met him when he
reported a lecture of mine in St。 Louis；〃 he said once in a conversation
where the name of Stanley was mentioned。＇
LXXXVI
ENGLAND
》From that night Mark Twain's stay in England could not properly be called
a gloomy one。
Routledge； Hood； Lee； and； in fact； all literary London； set themselves
the task of giving him a good time。 Whatever place of interest they
could think of he was taken there； whatever there was to see he saw it。
Dinners； receptions； and assemblies were not complete without him。 The
White Friars' Club and others gave banquets in his honor。 He was the
sensation of the day。 When he rose to speak on these occasions he was
greeted with wild cheers。 Whatever he said they eagerly applaudedtoo
eagerly sometimes； in the fear that they might be regarded as insensible
to American humor。 Other speakers delighted in chaffing him in order to
provoke his retorts。 When a speaker humorously referred to his American
habit of carrying a cotton umbrella； his reply that he followed this
custom because a cotton umbrella was the only kind of an umbrella that an
Englishman wouldn't steal； was all over England next day； and regarded as
one of the finest examples of wit since the days of Swift。
The suddenness and completeness of his acceptance by the great ones of
London rather overwhelmed and frightened him made him timid。 Joaquin
Miller writes：
He was shy as a girl； although time was already coyly flirting white
flowers at his temples； and could hardly be coaxed to meet the
learned and great who wanted to take him by the hand。
Many came to call on him at his hotel； among them Charles Reade and Canon
Kingsley。 Kingsley came twice without finding him； then wrote； asking
for an appointment。 Reade invited his assistance on a novel。 Indeed； it
was in England that Mark Twain was first made to feel that he had come
into his rightful heritage。 Whatever may have been the doubts concerning
him in America； there was no question in England。 Howells says：
In England rank； fashion； and culture rejoiced in him。 Lord mayors；
lord chief justices； and magnates of many kinds were his hosts； he
was desired in country houses； and his bold genius captivated the
favor of periodicals which spurned the rest of our nation。
After that first visit of Mark Twain's； when Americans in England；
referring to their great statesmen； authors； and the like； naturally
mentioned the names of Seward； Webster； Lowell； or Holmes； the English
comment was likely to be： 〃Never mind those。 We can turn out academic
Sewards by the dozen； and cultured humorists like Lowell and Holmes by
the score。 Tell us of Lincoln； Artemus Ward； and Mark Twain。 We cannot
match these； they interest us。〃 And it was true。 History could not
match them； for they were unique。
Clemens would have been more than human if in time he had not realized
the fuller meaning of this triumph； and exulted in it a little to the
folks at home。 There never lived a more modest； less pretentious； less
aggressive man than Mark Twain； but there never lived a man who took a
more childlike delight in genuine appreciation； and； being childlike； it
was only human that he should wish those nearest to him to share his
happiness。 After one memorable affair he wrote：
I have been received in a sort of tremendous way to…night by the
brains of London； assembled at the annual dinner of the sheriffs of
London； mine being （between you and me） a name which was received
with a thundering outburst of spontaneous applause when the long
list of guests was called。
I might have perished on the spot but for the friendly support and
assistance of my excellent friend； Sir John Bennett。
This letter does not tell all of the incident or the real reason why he
might have perished on the spot。 During the long roll…call of guests he
had lost interest a little； and was conversing in whispers with his
〃excellent friend；〃 Sir John Bennett； stopping to applaud now and then
when the applause of the others indicated that some distinguished name
had been pronounced。 All at once the applause broke out with great
vehemence。 This must be some very distinguished person indeed。 He
joined in it with great enthusiasm。 When it was over he whispered to Sir
John：
〃Whose name was that we were just applauding？〃
〃Mark Twain's。〃
Whereupon the support was needed。
Poor little pirate Hotten did not have a happy time during this visit。
He had reveled in the prospect at first； for he anticipated a large
increase to be derived from his purloined property； but suddenly； one
morning； he was aghast to find in the Spectator a signed letter from Mark
Twain； in which he was repudiated； referred to as 〃John Camden
Hottentot；〃 an unsavory person generally。 Hotten also sent a letter to
the Spectator； in which he attempted to justify himself； but it was a
feeble performance。 Clemens prepared two other communications； each
worse than the other and both more destructive than the first one。 But
these were only to relieve his mind。 He did not print them。 In one of
them he pursued the fancy of John Camden Hottentot； whom he offers as a
specimen to the Zoological Gardens。
It is not a bird。