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from the threshold of their homes； in an isolation； you would
think； like that of Homer's Cyclops。 But it is not so； the postman
reaches Goudet with the letter…bag； the aspiring youth of Goudet
are within a day's walk of the railway at Le Puy； and here in the
inn you may find an engraved portrait of the host's nephew； Regis
Senac； 'Professor of Fencing and Champion of the two Americas；' a
distinction gained by him； along with the sum of five hundred
dollars； at Tammany Hall； New York； on the 10th April 1876。
I hurried over my midday meal； and was early forth again。 But；
alas； as we climbed the interminable hill upon the other side；
'Proot！' seemed to have lost its virtue。 I prooted like a lion； I
prooted mellifluously like a sucking…dove； but Modestine would be
neither softened nor intimidated。 She held doggedly to her pace；
nothing but a blow would move her； and that only for a second。 I
must follow at her heels； incessantly be…labouring。 A moment's
pause in this ignoble toil； and she relapsed into her own private
gait。 I think I never heard of any one in as mean a situation。 I
must reach the lake of Bouchet； where I meant to camp； before
sundown； and； to have even a hope of this； I must instantly
maltreat this uncomplaining animal。 The sound of my own blows
sickened me。 Once； when I looked at her； she had a faint
resemblance to a lady of my acquaintance who formerly loaded me
with kindness； and this increased my horror of my cruelty。
To make matters worse； we encountered another donkey； ranging at
will upon the roadside； and this other donkey chanced to be a
gentleman。 He and Modestine met nickering for joy； and I had to
separate the pair and beat down their young romance with a renewed
and feverish bastinado。 If the other donkey had had the heart of a
male under his hide； he would have fallen upon me tooth and hoof；
and this was a kind of consolation … he was plainly unworthy of
Modestine's affection。 But the incident saddened me； as did
everything that spoke of my donkey's sex。
It was blazing hot up the valley； windless； with vehement sun upon
my shoulders； and I had to labour so consistently with my stick
that the sweat ran into my eyes。 Every five minutes； too； the
pack； the basket； and the pilot…coat would take an ugly slew to one
side or the other； and I had to stop Modestine； just when I had got
her to a tolerable pace of about two miles an hour； to tug； push；
shoulder； and readjust the load。 And at last； in the village of
Ussel； saddle and all； the whole hypothec turned round and
grovelled in the dust below the donkey's belly。 She； none better
pleased； incontinently drew up and seemed to smile； and a party of
one man； two women； and two children came up； and； standing round
me in a half…circle； encouraged her by their example。
I had the devil's own trouble to get the thing righted； and the
instant I had done so； without hesitation； it toppled and fell down
upon the other side。 Judge if I was hot！ And yet not a hand was
offered to assist me。 The man； indeed； told me I ought to have a
package of a different shape。 I suggested； if he knew nothing
better to the point in my predicament； he might hold his tongue。
And the good…natured dog agreed with me smilingly。 It was the most
despicable fix。 I must plainly content myself with the pack for
Modestine； and take the following items for my own share of the
portage： a cane； a quart…flask； a pilot…jacket heavily weighted in
the pockets； two pounds of black bread； and an open basket full of
meats and bottles。 I believe I may say I am not devoid of
greatness of soul； for I did not recoil from this infamous burden。
I disposed it； Heaven knows how； so as to be mildly portable； and
then proceeded to steer Modestine through the village。 She tried；
as was indeed her invariable habit； to enter every house and every
courtyard in the whole length； and； encumbered as I was； without a
hand to help myself； no words can render an idea of my
difficulties。 A priest； with six or seven others； was examining a
church in process of repair； and he and his acolytes laughed loudly
as they saw my plight。
I remembered having laughed myself when I had seen good men
struggling with adversity in the person of a jackass； and the
recollection filled me with penitence。 That was in my old light
days； before this trouble came upon me。 God knows at least that I
shall never laugh again； thought I。 But oh； what a cruel thing is
a farce to those engaged in it！
A little out of the village； Modestine； filled with the demon； set
her heart upon a by…road； and positively refused to leave it。 I
dropped all my bundles； and； I am ashamed to say； struck the poor
sinner twice across the face。 It was pitiful to see her lift her
head with shut eyes； as if waiting for another blow。 I came very
near crying； but I did a wiser thing than that； and sat squarely
down by the roadside to consider my situation under the cheerful
influence of tobacco and a nip of brandy。 Modestine； in the
meanwhile； munched some black bread with a contrite hypocritical
air。 It was plain that I must make a sacrifice to the gods of
shipwreck。 I threw away the empty bottle destined to carry milk； I
threw away my own white bread； and； disdaining to act by general
average； kept the black bread for Modestine； lastly； I threw away
the cold leg of mutton and the egg…whisk； although this last was
dear to my heart。 Thus I found room for everything in the basket；
and even stowed the boating…coat on the top。 By means of an end of
cord I slung it under one arm； and although the cord cut my
shoulder； and the jacket hung almost to the ground； it was with a
heart greatly lightened that I set forth again。
I had now an arm free to thrash Modestine； and cruelly I chastised
her。 If I were to reach the lakeside before dark； she must bestir
her little shanks to some tune。 Already the sun had gone down into
a windy…looking mist； and although there were still a few streaks
of gold far off to the east on the hills and the black fir…woods；
all was cold and grey about our onward path。 An infinity of little
country by…roads led hither and thither among the fields。 It was
the most pointless labyrinth。 I could see my destination overhead；
or rather the peak that dominates it； but choose as I pleased； the
roads always ended by turning away from it； and sneaking back
towards the valley； or northward along the margin of the hills。
The failing light； the waning colour； the naked； unhomely； stony
country through which I was travelling； threw me into some
despondency。 I promise you； the stick was not idle； I think every
decent step that Modestine took must have cost me at least two
emphatic blows。 There was not another sound in the neighbourhood
but that of my unwearying bastinado。
Suddenly； in the midst of my toils； the load once more bit the
dust； and； as by enchantment； all the cords were simultaneously
loosened； and the road scattered with my dear possessions。 The
packing was to begin again from the beginning； and as I had to
invent a new and better system； I do not doubt but I lost half an
hour。 It began to be dusk in earnest as I reached a wilderness of
turf and stones。 It had the air of being a road which should lead
everywhere at the same time； and I was falling into something not
unlike despair when I saw two figures stalking towards me over the
stones。 They walked one behind the other like tramps； but their
pace was remarkable。 The son led the way； a tall； ill…made；
sombre； Scottish…looking man； the mother followed； all in her
Sunday's best； with an elegantly embroidered ribbon to her cap； and
a new felt hat atop； and proffering； as she strode along with
kilted petticoats； a string of obscene and blasphemous oaths。
I hailed the son； and asked him my direction。 He pointed loosely
west and north…west； muttered an inaudible comment； and； without
slackening his pace for an instant； stalked on； as he was going；
right athwart my path。 The mother followed without so much as
raising her head。 I shouted and shouted after them； but they
continued to scale the hillside； and turned a deaf ear to my
outcries。 At last； leaving Modestine by herself； I was constrained
to run after them； hailing the while。 They stopped as I drew near；
the mother still cursing； and I could see she was a handsome；
motherly； respectable…looking woman。 The son once more answered me
roughly and inaudibly； and was for setting out again。 But this
time I simply collared the mother； who was nearest me； and；
apologising for my violence； declared that I could not let them go
until they had put me on my road。 They were neither of them
offended … rather mollified than otherwise； told me I had only to
follow th